Sunday, February 28, 2010

Pretty Young Things

Alberta Ferretti has blown through fashion week like a breath of crisp, clean, minty fresh air. Almost every peice from this glamorous collection evokes thoughts of cotton candy, tiara's, and fanciful tea parties from childhood days. Gowns of silk and chiffon, jeweled sleaves and necklines. Its all so romantic and feminine, its actually quite refreshing. There are plenty of designers doing structured, tailored, suits circa 1960's business woman. Feretti is sticking to what she knows and what she wants her namesake collection to be known for- unapologetic femininity.

With looks like these, this label is on track to become to award show attendees what Vera Wang has been for brides, a one stop shop. And good on her, Its great to see a designer who sticks with what she believes in and perfects it to a science, while so many designers are jumping ship in favor of catering to the latest trend or critic, because lets face it, those attempts haven't been going so well (see: Wang, and V-Day). Feretti's new collection is clear and focused, and in tough economic times like these, I think she's played her hand wisely, she knows shoppers are intentional and she's built a collection to match... her bottom line is sure to benefit. Well played.


Ok so the Milan shows have been going on for like 2 days now and I've just been pretending like they aren't because I feel this quicksand type of effect happening to me when I actually click on one of those pretty little pictures on Before I know it its 5 hours later and I'm going through detail shots of McQueen boots from like 2003. So ok, here it is. Cover me, Im going in.

First up... Versace-

I wouldn't normally probably even cover Versace because well, if you don't have anything nice to say...
And this collection really wasn't any exception. The thing I thought was really interesting is that for a fashion house that's been around for over 30 years, the collection came across as a designer struggling to figure out who she is. Now I may not like what Versace's got to say season after season, but atleast she stays in her lane. Shes glam, shes body-con, shes over the top, and she loves it.

Well all of a sudden, apparently shes decided to ditch who she is and roll with the trends, and as body-con may be taking a back seat for a while, she's experimenting with something very...umm..different.

She started with a wool coat with fur arms paired with a yellow skirt in a fabric I can only describe as aluminum, and do I really need to start in on those leather legwarmers? I say no. She traversed in and out of leather motorcycle pants, some with built in chaps, and paired these asymetrically/geometrically cut skirts with well... everything. It wasn't until about look 32 that I was able to relax my eyebrows >:/ and remember whose show I was watching. The kicker, was that at the end of the show, its almost as if she was just like, "F it!" and went straight back to what she wanted to be doing the whole time anyways. I'm still scratching my head about this one...

On a positive note though, I do think the vynil futuristic mini dresses will be very popular this season editorially, and the white gown with the cut-outs isn't half bad. I'm predicting A-list celeb at award show in this one fairly soon. Too bad the Grammy's are over, its such a Grammy gown. Anyways, I'm babbling now, here are the pictures.

And then the Versace show began...

Friday, February 26, 2010

The King has left the Building

When Fashion meets funeral the results can be... interesting. Don't get me wrong, Naomi Campbell looked great, but I can't help wondering if there's some sort of wierd moral conflict about going to a funeral and having to wonder with whether you're fashionable enough for the occasion.

I've got my own moral dilemma to deal with, in the fact that someone has tragically passed and here I am blogging about the fashion. But this is a unique occasion and I take solice in the thought that this is the way Alexander would have wanted it. For us to all soldier on, and look good doing it.

In the 14 year span of his phenominal career McQueen managed to perform an incredible feat. That is, he has left a gaping hole in an industry that is full of fledgling new comers, where the turnover rate of creative directors can be as high as that of any modern corporation. Season after season designers put their best foot forward and hope they survive to see another swatch. Yet in a field so ripe with talent, he has managed to create something so outstandingly unique that the fashion community at large hangs on the thought of whether anyone is capable of taking over his post.

Alexander clearly was not your mothers' designer. Aside from his avante-garde designs, and uncoventional runway shows, it was apparent in the finale of every show when he would take his bow in a t-shirt and bowling shoes, sometimes looking as though he'd spent the afternoon painting his house, and maybe he had. That is to say that he was not a of the Valentino/Karl Lagerfeld school of thought, with their immaculately tailored suits, there is never any mistaking that these men not only love, but live, fashion. McQueen had a much more detached approach. It was almost as if three times a year McQueens wild imagination would regurgitate itself onto the runway, just for the sake of giving his brain some breathing room for all the other wild thoughts and images sure to be rolling around in there. It was never fashion for fashions sake, it was fashion for arts sake, and that's not to discredit in any way the incredible designer he was. As much as he was an innovator, he was equally known for his perfect tailoring and attention to detail, an apprenticeship on the famed savile row early in his career assured that. He was a true master in every sense of the word, and with every collection, he took the industry and himself to a new height.

Whether or not fashion is in fact art, is an age old topic that will never be conclusively resolved. Its a matter of pure opinion, and there are as many designers who would say nay as there are designers insulted by the mere question. But we need not go there now, because what we know above all else is that whether you believe fashion is art or not, McQueen was an artist, and his creations were as inspired as any Van Gogh, Klimt, or Picasso. When something has been created from an inspired place, we know it, because we feel it, and this couldn't be more true of the late great. Through his work, we felt him, we felt his soul, and that human-ness is what resonates with us all.

So, with two days until the end of London's fashion week, the place McQueen called home for the past 8 years, the Late Great has taken his final bow. And the community that embraced him for the past 14 years will once more zip up their boots, secure the knot on their coats, and hold fast to their schedules as they run to the next tent, because if there's anything we know in this fickle business, its that come hell or high water, the shows simply must go on.

                       Kate Moss  and Naomi Campbell arrive to Alexander McQueens funeral in style.                             

          Bloggers Note: Robert Polet, President and CEO of The Gucci Group, which holds a 51% stake in the Alexander McQueen brand has said recently that the Alexander McQueen business will go on without its founder and Creative Director (Gasp).

There will be a much anticipated presentation of McQueen's most recent collection during Paris Fashion Week.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Well smack my ass and call me Judy!

OK! I will now proceed to insert foot into mouth. And I've never been happier to do it! Almost a week ago, I wrote a peice about ethnic models rarely if ever being featured in the world of high fashion (see "The Color Code"). I had resigned to this well known fact, based on my conclusion that even when they are, its like a wave that is sure to roll out. Typically, the fashion community has treated ethnic models like high waisted jeans, the color black or shoulder pads... a disposable trend. 
Well! French Vogue was like, Shut yo mouth! and is now slated to feature the one, the only, the beautiful, the black, Rose Cordero on the cover of their March issue! Tres magnifique! I would expect nothing less from my favorite Conde Nasty publication. Carine Roitfeld has never been afraid to step outside the box, turn around, pick up the box, and proceed to tear to shreads, and this is why we love her so. Oh Carine, let me count the ways!

Photo c/o Theybf


Dear PETA,

I appreciate everything you are doing to protect the animals of this world. I love them too and I think they deserve to live in peace as much as any human being. And I have been giving some serious thought to joining your cause as of late...

But then I saw Burberry's Fall Winter collection.. and well.. Im sorry, but I now realize I can not join your cause, because I have an affection for shearling lined leather motorcycle jackets that just can not be controlled. My heart skips a beat when I see double breasted wool peacoats with oversized lapels. I was near tears when I saw the thigh-high python skin boots. And alpaca! dyed in rich shades of plum, that would make Prince slap his mama!  and... well, I think you get my point.

Maybe one day I will have a change of heart, not today, and I fear that as long as Christopher Bailey is employed, your memberships may nose dive the 4th month of every year. I'm still pulling for you guys though. Keep hope alive.

Yours truly,


Need I say more??

Monday, February 22, 2010

No Bang for the BAFTA's

Generally, I don't really pay much attention to the BAFTA awards. Winners, losers, indifferent, I could usually care less. But! here I am, blogging away, and I can not descriminate. So! Unto the breach! Here it is, the good, the bad, and the ugly (ehemm...Kristen Stewart). And whats worse than that, are the ones who didn't even bother to try... (ehemm...Kristen stewart).
Audrey Tatou looks like a Valentine's Day treat in blushing Lanvin

The thing about the BAFTA's that I can really appreciate though, is that a gorgeous confection like the Vionnet look Carry Mulligan wore on the red carpet would have been absolutely critically panned by the Hollywood fashion media, who generally have no appetite for anything that may evoke the words "risk", "chance", "forward", "fashion"... you get where I'm going with this. Even though I totally get why some people may not love this look, you've got to appreciate the dress even if its not great on her (look closely, its like watercolor on fabric). And it seems as though the same narrow minded media have all but taken out a hit on Alber Elbaz. Everytime a starlette shows up in Lanvin, she's automatically in line for a first class ticket to the worst dressed list. The only time I've actually seen the Hollywood "fashion" media, have anything good to say about a Lanvin dress was when Marillon Cotillard wore that gorgeous black number to the Golden Globes with matching silk hair ribbon and opera gloves. It was perfection, they said it was "nice.. but not quite right". Of course not, it wasn't a tall boring column. Well anyways, enough about them, here's my hits and misses from this years BAFTA's.

Carry Mulligan in a beautiful Vionette gown- Right dress, Wrong girl.

Kristen Stewart picked a dress to match her deadpan look and dull personality.

Claire Danes did Christopher Bailey proud in a shimmery nude Burberry gown.

Vera Farmiga looked stunning in Marchesa-         
although I can't help feeling like this would be more appropriate if she were walking down a church aisle punctuated by a Pastor.

Vanessa Redgrave looks amazing. Who cares who she's wearing, she's workin' out.

Good Elvira

Bad Elvira

Kate Winslet sexes it up in Stella, and good on her, she looks hot.

I give the scene-stealer award to the lovely Audrey Tatou in that sweet pink dress, she kept it fun, flirty and sweet, and she looks effortlessly lovely. She didn't get all mermaid gown on us... nothin grosses me out more than a mermaid gown. Other than that I t thought there were a lot of pretty dresses but no one's total look knocked me off my feet. It was all a bit casual I felt, and not in that casual chic Kate Mossy kinda way. . just in that eh (shoulder shrug) kinda way. Oh well. Oooon to the next!

Photos c/o The Guardian UK

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Im scared of Grace Jones

Ok I know shes supposed to be the biznass, and she's cool and fashion-forward and all these things. I get it. But im still scared.

photo c/o Theyfb

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Just Don't Call Her Small

I just wanted give a little spotlight to the lovely Hannah Holman. In case you don't know who she is, she is the new model who you may have seen in the Alexander Wang, and Miu Miu campaigns and trotting the runway for Marc Jacobs for FW10. Now the reason I thought her worth mentioning, aside from the fact that shes perfectly lovely (we just shot her, I with stylist Stevie Dance for the April cover of Russh magazine) is because I was quite surprised when she turned up to set in all of her petite glory. She's teeny by model standards, only 5'7" and I'd say thats being generous. A few people on set thought this a fact worth mentioning to Hannah, to which she quickly quipped, "I'm not small, I'm just small for a model".

Never since Kate and Devon (Aoki) have we seen such a pint size model making such a big splash. In addition to the Miu Miu campaign, Miuccia has taken a special likeing to her, having her close the Prada show and open the Miu Miu resort collection.

But all that said, I just want to say that she is oh so deserving, shes got a great face, and lovely personality to match. Enough with defining models by their height, 5 feet 10 inches does not a great model make, and I for one am glad the fashion industry has opened its little heart to this petite beauty. We shot her outside in New York winter weather, and she didn't so much as flinch under the freezing temperature. She's a trooper. And everybody likes a trooper. So goodluck Hannah, and may the fashion forces be with you.

Photo c/o fashionspot

Spawn of Costa

I just had a showgasm. ok I made that up. But I had to come up with someway to explain what happened to me when I saw this little peice of heaven. I get all warm and fuzzy inside just looking at it again. :)

Cushnie et Octs

I feel like Francisco Costa just had a baby and her name is Cushnie et Octs. Not to put these talented girls and this beautiful collection in the shadows of a giant, because the truth is that they've proven they can hold their own. But rather, this a compliment to out-do all compliments. What Cushnie et Octs has managed to do is translate chic minimalism the Calvin Klein collection is so famous for, for the younger generation.

Take for example the Swarovski encrusted tops, Francisco's head would probably spin in excorcist like fashion if you brought a Swarovski within 20 feet of his cool confections, but its details like this that make Cushnie the Calvin Klein collection for the 20 something (and dare I say under 20) set. As much as I love Costa's collections for Calvin Klein, and I do loooove, I can't help but feel about it the way I sometimes feel about Lady Gaga: I sincerely appreciate the talent, but its just not really MY thing. On the same token, I count Francisco Costa among my favorite designers, so trust me when I say, this is not a jab.
                                                                Cushnie                                                 Calvin

I think what strikes me the most in the Cushnie show is they've really thought about every detail. The pony hair skirt with the broken seams, that beautifully fluid silk dress with the cutout at the chest, the sheer panneled leather dress, and the shoes! They've considered everything, right down to the leather rosettes on those pretty little gloves.

Of course, I could have done without some of the looks Octs sent down the runway, the steely grey cocktail dresses I found a little below the high taste level they set for themselves in the other 30 or so looks, but still, these girls aren't stupid. The consumer they are appealing to may have a night out or a red carpet event where she wants to feel slightly less minimal, slightly more ultra femme, and thats ok, they know their consumer and they've dressed her for every mood.

So with all this magnificence, what is there to learn from papa Costa? Well what Francisco has perfected what these ladies have yet to grasp. That is the magic and precision of a perfectly fluid show. When you see a Calvin Klein show, it flows like a beautifully told story. From gunmetal, to winter white, into signature black and just a sprinkle of periwinkle. Costa's woman is a woman, and she knows who she is and where she's going. But fear not Cushnie and Octs, you're well on your way, and with a collection like this, papa may soon be looking to you for advice.
                                                    Cushnie et Octs                                        Calvin Klein Collection

Thursday, February 18, 2010

The Color Code

Ok, so I know its kind of old fauder to talk about the presence, or lack thereof, of ethnic diversity in the world of high-fashion. Been there done that, seen it, heard it, read about it. And quite frankly I'm bored, because the truth is I don't know if anything has ever actually changed, or if there is just this illusion of change, since the ethnic model trend seems to roll in and out of fashion like the morning tide.

But I think its also important to give props where props are due (I can't believe I just said props...twice), and this month the credit goes to Interview, W, AND V. Sitting here on my laptop, I couldn't help but notice a colorful common thread amongst the covers of these three magazines on my end table: they are all adorned with faces of black artists. Grant it, they're not models, but bloggers can't be choosers and I'll take what I can get.

Now maybe fashion doesn't deserve all the credit for this revelation, maybe its the artists who have worked hard and stood out in their respective fields, so much so that the fashion industry couldn't help but take notice and react to the sways of pop-culture. Alas, I fear we may have chicken/egg situation on our hands people, and we all know that question never never been conclusively answered, so I won't attempt to crack the case now.

I also won't dare be so brazen as to make some blanketed social commentary about the significance of this moment based on one months editorial run, but I do think it worth mentioning, however fleeting the moment may be.

So I'll just say, Bravo! Congrats to all invloved! To the editors and the artists, and the biggest congratulations to all of us fashion, film, and music fans who get to reap the rewards of such a mergence. We get to see the artists who are making the biggest splash at the moment, without bias, being embraced by the fashion world to which we pledge our undying allegiance, with every click of a blog, and swipe of a credit card. So cheers I say! Tre magnifique!
W photo c/o, Interview photo c/o, V photo c/o

Proenza gets Clueless

It seems Cher Horowitz and the rest of her Clueless posse have been busy running around in their platform heels, providing inspiration for the Fall shows. Cropped tops, sheer blouses, pleated minis, and (gasp!) thigh high's! And youd be hard pressed to find a designer not showing platforms with their collection this season. Just take the Proenza boys...

I love Proenza. Its great to see a young design team who really knows who they are. Season after season they continue to dress the "cool" girl in something completely unique, different, and fresh to what you'll see on anyone elses runway. Even with the references to fashions of decades past, they continue to do it their way. Never affraid to play with texture, color, or print. Even when it seemed the only thing a cool girl could possibly be seen in was leather, denim, and studs, Proenza was off reconstructing mens dress shirts, and combining metallic, with animal print and feathers to boot! Never afraid of a little shine, never afraid to stray from the beaten path, they're off creating the cool girl while so many are catering to her, these are a few of the reasons I Jador'e these boys.

The other reason is they know how to do a mini like nobody's business, and we all know mama loves a mini! So this season they really took it there for the downtown chick. Thats right, graffiti...on the clothes, and toggle coats! Who doesnt love a toggle coat?! Especially when its been chopped at the waist. Even with those influxes of 1990's, they take it to the next level- The sheer blouses have leather collars and cuffs, the babydoll dresses have been tagged and metallicized, and the Proenza girl isnt afraid of her fur, (who needs a collar when you can flank your whole top half?!)

Well Patrick and Lazaro, I think Cher and D would be proud. And I for one couldnt be happier. Enough with the 80's already, I moving on to 1995. Who's comin with me?!

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Interview is over the hill....but Damn does it look good!

Ok so just wanted share a few pics. This was from last weeks 40th anniversary Interview party, which by blog standards may as well have been a year ago, but here it is nonetheless.
We went in support of our girl Sky who was displaying her collages all over the walls of the Good Units basement. You can see some of her work in the background.
By time we spent way too long eating La Esquina the party was pretty much dead, but i'm sure youve seen all those boring celeb pics anyways. You must just be Bursting to see pics of me and MY friends!! Well, here it is...Now don't get too excited.

Me, Trese, Cereleina, Skylicious, and Paloma (and Ruckus in the back)
Photos c/o

And He does it again...And again...and again..

Yes, that's right, Marc is here to bring some much needed furvor to this mundane time in the city we commonly refer to as New York fashion week. I don't love fashion week personally, but it doesn't mean I don't "get it". Its a neccessary evil, and so I have surrendered to it, and stopped complaining (well...less anyway). That said, I would like to formally thank you Marc for always coming along like a good fashion superhero to the to save the day, and give us all (nay-sayer's included) something to get amped about. Just look at that trench! The outerwear alone in this collection is enough to make a girl get all giddy. But then add in those sequin dresses with the opera gloves, the beautifully muted color pallette, and those magically tragic babydoll's and you have a perfect storm of fashion yumminess. Aaaah Marc, what do you do to me?